Category: How To

tutorials and how tos

Band Hat Construction – reference for cosplay

I’m making a Jagermonster (from the Girl Genius webcomic) costume that can also function as a Steampunk / Victorian costume of an unspecified hussar (it’s a type of light cavalry with really cool costumes). Of course, that means I need a nice hat.

A horde of Jagermonsters in varying uniforms.

To make life easier, I bought a vintage band hat (shako) off ebay. So this post is how that hat is constructed in case somebody else wants to do the same thing. I’m sure construction varies depending on company and decade, but this should give you an idea.

One of the ebay photos

The historical shakos were made of stiffened felt and leather. Naturally, modern ones are much cheaper. From the inside out: the base is molded ABS plastic. It’s covered in twill fabric in two pieces – the top and the main part which is sewn in front with the seam hidden by the plaque (the big brass thing). The trim on top is also sewn in front, but the trim on bottom is sewn on one side. The whole fabric cover is glued on the inside and the outside under the trim pieces.. I suspect you could pull the fabric off to use as a pattern, but it would probably have some tears.

Showing the plastic body. Ignore the hole – I added that. The clothes pins are holding the headliner out of the way.

Over the twill covering goes the visor with the edge trimmed (printed on the visor is washing instructions: Don’t.) Mine seems to be a layer of stiff card and a layer of vinyl. The visor is sewn onto the inside. Sewn over that is a faux leather (vinyl) sweatband with a headliner attached. The headliner allows some size adjustment. Mine is fabric – I specifically looked for that – but the newer ones are vinyl.

Photo from ebay showing the inside of the hat, with the visor, sweatband, and headliner, as well as a tag.
Inside the shako, with the stitching holding everything in place removed.

You can see how things go a bit better here, hopefully. The large hole is a vent that I suspect doesn’t help much. The bottom hole I added, so ignore it. The twist ties show the position of the hole for the brad (see below). It looks like a button, but has long metal arms like a brad. Naturally, I can’t get that so I’m using buttons and temporarily holding them with twist ties. The brad holds on the cord and the chinstrap.

side of the hat, showing the button-like brad

The last detail is the plume holder for the plume, pompom, or whatever decoration, which also secures the plaque. This is a flattened plastic tube that goes in a hole in the top of the hat.

the top of the hat
inside the hat, with a screw on the back of the plaque through a hole in the plume holder

The holes are far enough up the hat that you shouldn’t ever feel the screw (which has a small nut that should go on there, but I didn’t bother for the photos). The plaque can turn freely, but I suspect you could solder or glue on another screw to prevent that, since there are three holes.

I think that’s everything. I’ve made a new pompom and I’m going to add fancier cords, like a military shako, that hang from near the top. I’m sculpting a new plaque using the old one as a base. Eventually I’ll make a new, black leather visor, but I think I’m going to run out of time. This is my very rough and ugly mock-up (the plaque will look like brass, not embroidery). I’ll probably also replace the blue trim with gold at some point.


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Comic icon tutorial: Speech Balloons 1

If there’s a word balloon in the section you want to make into an icon, you have a few options: you can remove it, you can remove the text, or you can just leave it as is. The last one is usually not a great option, because often the text is too small to read (or there’s just way too much text). I’ll show two ways to include the text or balloon in a later tutorial. Today, we’re going to cover removing it.

a panel with two thought balloons. Brian Braddock is shown wearing safety eyewear and doing something to make a bright spark. The entire panel is magenta.

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Silver’s Ultimate Text Readibility Trick

I’m going to be doing some icon/avatar tutorials, but this one works for any graphics.

Have you ever been stuck behind a truck with a wrap with a super busy background and looked at it thinking, “hope you have good word of mouth, because that phone number is impossible to read”? (this may be an ailment limited to graphic designers) How to keep that from happening with graphics you make? CHUNKY TEXT OUTLINES.

I’ve done literally hundreds of banners for RainbowLists / RainbowFic and I’ve used this trick for every one. Here’s the most basic form:

an ice cream counter with a number of tubs, with one being scooped into a cone. Text reads "time for dessert" in white with a black outline

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How to Buy a Computer for Cheaper

I originally posted this on Tumblr and it was very popular, so I thought it should be reposted somewhere that won’t disappear and can be more easily searched for. So here it is, with a few edits.

Buy refurbished. And I’m going to show you how, and, in general, how to buy a better computer than you currently have. I’m fairly tech-knowledgeable, but not an expert. But this is how I’ve bought my last three computers for personal use and business (graphics). I’m writing this for people who barely know computers. If you have a techie friend or family member, having them help can do a lot for the stress of buying a new computer.

There are three numbers you want to know from your current computer: drive size, RAM, and processor speed (slightly less important, unless you’re doing gaming or 3d rendering or something else like that)

We’re going to assume you use Windows, because if you use Apple I can’t help, sorry.

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